Vesak in Sri Lanka: A Visitor's Guide

What is Vesak?

Vesak, also written Wesak and called Vesak Poya, celebrates three events in the life of the Buddha, which Buddhists in Sri Lanka believe all happened on the full moon of the month of Vesak:

• His birth as Prince Siddhartha
• His enlightenment under the Bodhi tree
• His passing away, known as parinibbana

For Sri Lankan Buddhists, Vesak is a time to visit temples, observe the eight precepts, give to others and reflect. It is a national public holiday, and in Sri Lanka the day after Vesak Poya is usually a holiday too.

When is Vesak?

Vesak falls on the full moon day of the Sinhala month of Vesak, which is usually in May. In some years, when the lunar calendar adds an extra month, Vesak is held in June. Because it follows the moon, the date changes every year. Check the official holiday list for the year of your trip.

The celebrations often begin on the evening before the full moon and continue for a few nights after it. The government sometimes announces an official "Vesak week", during which decorations stay up and dansal are held across the country.

What you will see

Vesak lanterns (Vesak kudu)

Families, schools and temples make lanterns from bamboo frames and coloured paper, in shapes from simple stars to elaborate many-sided designs. They hang from houses, trees and shop fronts, and glow softly after dark. Some towns hold lantern competitions.

Pandals (thoran)

Pandals are huge illuminated panels, often several storeys high, covered in thousands of flashing coloured lights. They show paintings of scenes from the Jataka stories, tales of the Buddha's past lives. In the evening, a narrator tells the story over a loudspeaker while the lights flash in time, and crowds gather to watch.

Dansal

A dansal is a free stall where people give food and drink to everyone who passes, as an act of generosity. You might be offered a cup of tea, a cool drink, ice cream, rice and curry, or a bowl of kola kanda, a herbal porridge. Queues can be long for the most popular stalls. Visitors are welcome to accept, and it is polite to do so.

Temples full of light

Temples are decorated with flowers and oil lamps, and worshippers dressed in white visit throughout the day and night. Many people spend the day at a temple observing the precepts, listening to sermons and meditating.

Devotional songs (bhakti gee)

Groups perform Buddhist devotional songs on small stages and from decorated carts, called bhakti gee.

Where to see Vesak

Colombo

Colombo has some of the biggest pandals and the busiest dansal. The areas around Beira Lake and the Gangaramaya Temple, and the main roads in the city centre, are usually lively, with lanterns and lights. Traffic is heavy in the evenings, so it is often easier to walk. See our guide to one day in Colombo.

Kandy

Kandy is home to the Temple of the Tooth, so Vesak here has a special atmosphere. The streets around the lake are decorated, and the temple is full of worshippers. See our list of the best things to do in Kandy.

Anuradhapura

In the ancient city of Anuradhapura, thousands of pilgrims dressed in white visit the sacred Bodhi tree and the great stupas. It is a deeply spiritual place to spend Vesak.

Villages and small towns

Even the smallest villages hang lanterns and set up a dansal. If you are staying somewhere rural, take a walk after dark to see how a local community celebrates.

How Vesak affects your trip

• Alcohol is not usually sold over Vesak Poya and sometimes for a few days around it. Liquor shops and bars close, and some hotels may not serve alcohol in public areas.
• Meat and fish may be harder to find. Slaughterhouses and some meat shops close, and many people eat vegetarian food.
• Many shops and offices close on the Poya day and the day after.
• Roads are busy in the evenings, especially in Colombo, as families drive and walk to see the pandals.
• Hotels can be busier with local travellers, especially near the big temples and the ancient cities.

Sites such as Sigiriya, the Dambulla Cave Temple and the ancient cities stay open, but may be busier with local visitors.

How to join in respectfully

• Dress modestly. Wear clothes that cover your shoulders and knees when visiting temples, and white is a respectful choice. Remove your shoes and hat before entering. See what to wear at Sri Lankan temples.
• Accept dansal food graciously. Take what you will eat, say thank you ("istuti" in Sinhala), and put your rubbish in the bins provided.
• Be patient in crowds. Pandal viewing areas can be very busy. Keep an eye on children and your belongings.
• Ask before taking photos of people praying or making offerings.
• Never pose with your back to a Buddha statue or touch the statues.
• Keep your voice low inside temples.

Read our responsible travel guide for more tips.

Food you might try

Many dansal serve simple, delicious dishes. Look out for:

• Kola kanda: a green herbal porridge made with rice, coconut milk and leafy greens, served warm.
• Rice and curry: a plate of rice with vegetable curries, often served on a leaf.
• Faluda: a sweet, rose-flavoured milk drink with jelly and basil seeds.
• Ice cream and fizzy drinks: popular with children and very welcome on a hot evening.

See our guide to Sri Lankan food to try.

Vesak and Poson

A month after Vesak, Sri Lankans celebrate Poson on the June full moon. Poson marks the arrival of Buddhism in Sri Lanka and is celebrated most at Mihintale and Anuradhapura. It has lanterns and dansal too, though on a smaller scale. If you are travelling in May and June, you may be able to see both. Our Sri Lanka festivals calendar covers every major festival of the year.

Weather in May

May is a transition month. The south-west monsoon usually arrives on the west and south coasts, bringing rain to Colombo, Galle and the southern beaches. The east coast, including Trincomalee and Arugam Bay, is usually drier. The Cultural Triangle is generally warm and fairly dry. See our guides to Sri Lanka in May and June and the best time to visit Sri Lanka.

A suggested Vesak itinerary

Here is one way to build a short trip around Vesak:

• Day 1: arrive and spend the evening in Colombo, walking among the pandals and lanterns around Beira Lake.
• Day 2: drive to Kandy, visiting the Temple of the Tooth and walking around the decorated lake in the evening.
• Day 3: travel to the Cultural Triangle, climbing Pidurangala Rock or Sigiriya early the next morning.
• Day 4: spend Vesak or the following day in Anuradhapura among the pilgrims at the sacred Bodhi tree.
• Day 5 onwards: continue to the east coast beaches, which are usually at their best from around May.

Your private driver can plan the evenings around the best decorations and help you avoid traffic. Our cultural tour can easily be adapted to include Vesak.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Expecting a drink with dinner. Alcohol is not usually sold over Vesak. Plan for an alcohol-free evening or two.
• Driving into central Colombo at night. Traffic around the big pandals is very slow. Walk, or ask your driver to drop you nearby.
• Wearing beachwear to temples. Pack at least one outfit that covers your shoulders and knees.
• Assuming everything is open. Check in advance if you need a shop, bank or office around Vesak.

Frequently asked questions